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|I had a few rough
cobbles around so I made use of them. Some people put a
brick covering on top of dome at this stage but I had
decided to go with an A-Roof and fill with dry vermiculite.
Please forgive the untidy state of things. Some
info on The Green Man here!
|Wall taking shape
the Green Man is something I made from a silicone mould in a
previous life. It's a special plaster with a polymer in it
so it is as hard as stone. (Update - after one year in the
open, the Green man is a bit worn looking. :o) Others were
picked up at Boot Sale or donated by friends.
|Still a few fiddly
bits to do this spring to make it really finished. A section
of black stove pipe will make a fine chimney. I made a
joining piece that goes from the chimney pot to the
black stove pipe. I used heavy tin and a few
rough dash on the sidewalls will give a Mediterranen feel. We
had several Pizza Parties last year and they were a great
success. I need to close off the area around the chimney pot
and keep the rain out.
Make sure the oven door cover fits through the brick entrance
before the bricks set solid.
The logs in my photos are simply ornamental. As you will
know, the fire goes inside the dome. It needs really dry
wood - I like to use ash firewood - and this will provide the fierce heat
you need. Keep the heat going for around 1.5 hours
before starting to cook. I made a slate removable door for the front so
I could control heat. When the fire-brick door is
closed, the fire goes out so be careful.
Information on lighting oven and cooking pizza here.
The pot has been fitted.
There is a rim at lower end which rests on the angle iron. I
used a few bits of slate to close of the gaps around the
bottom of the pot, then filled with cement and ceramic
blanket. You will notice that I have started to build
a brick mini-wall closing off the view of dome. The ceramic
blanket around pot as you build will keep heat from the
roof. Plan your roof before cutting. Note the height of the
side walls. They must be level across - one to the
not needed, but I took no chances and wrapped the timber in
ceramic fibre blanket just behind the chimney. Better
safe than sorry. And, an insulated chimney pot will
draw smoke better than an uninsulated one. The ridge board (uppermost front to back) rests on bricks
behind chimney and on a timber cross piece at rear. Also
see next image.
|The timbers for the roof: I used 3
x 2 (inch) lengths and drilled through them and into the
concrete blocks (after blocks had a couple of days
drying). Then I used 4 or 5 inch
express-nails. See image.
the short piece marked FINALLY below!! The dome in above
image will be hidden by loose vermiculite before you close
off the inner space under the roof
Top dark board is the
ridge-board and forms the ridge of the roof. The 3x2
(inches) nailed to the wall is the wall-plate. You can see
how the short rafters are fitted. You must notch the
rafter where it meets the wall-plate, and cut the angle
where it meets the ridge board. The rafters must be kept
down at the ridge board to accomodate the battons you will
put on across the rafters - from front to back. The
metal sheet goes on top of the battens.
can just about make out in this image - the marks for
cutting the 'bird's beak' which sits on the wall
plate. There are professional carpenters' ways for
doing this and there is my way. I confess I just held
the rafter to the end of the wall-plate and up to the
ridge-board and pencilled in the birds beak.
VIP : You must allow the space for the battens
when you hold the rafter against the ridge-board. When
you are satisfied with the first rafter - mark all the
others from that one.
|All sorts of things
going on in this photo! The chimney pot had to be extended
so I manufactured a piece using a sheet of tin I had thrown
in the shed. I measured, tied it in a tube shape,
drilled and rivetted. Stove pipe will befitted later.
The eagle eyes among you will have noticed that I have a
strange arrangement of rafter under the corrugated
sheeting. No need to go as high as this. It's
just a matter of choice. Remember as you are making
your roof that you will be fitting fascia boards.
boards fitted and ready for filling and painting. I
fitted an extra piece of wood onto/into the top of the
bricks for the front fascia. I screwed front fascia to
piece of wood and ends of battens.
||The sheets of
corrugated iron were fitted so that they extend over the
fascia boards for rain run-off. The sheets were kept apart
at top so that the ridge board was just revealed. Along the top of
the ridge, I screwed down an old shovel-handle!!
Before I screwed down the shovel-handle, I cut the lead to
size, and gently folded it onto the handle on a flat
surface. The lead will take up the shape easily and
just needs a gentle pushing under sides of handle. When you
screw down the handle, the lead now fits effortlessly in
place. Tap the lead onto the shape of the corrugated iron.
Use a shaped piece of wood (lead-beater) and not a metal object!!
||The lead-beater in
image above is made of hard plastic but costs about thirty
euros. Make one from wood!
Here for tips on lighting fire, implements you will need,
Recipe for dough and recipe for Tomato sauce.
After you have made a back for your oven, wooden
2x4(inch) pieces nailed to rear of sidewalls and tin or
wooden back fixed on, fill the space
under the roof with dry vermiculite. If you have any
ceramic fibre blanket put that on top of dome first.
You'll be amazed that with 400c degrees in the oven, you can
put your hand on a cool external sidewall because of all the
insulation you have used.
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