Pizza Ovens Ireland
An Easy Guide to Building your own Outdoor Pizza Oven
With photos showing you the way
This is Page 4 - Pizza Oven Roof


Click here for Page 1 of Pizza Ovens Ireland  which contains the first twenty-one images of How to Build a Wood-Fired Pizza Oven.  Click Here for Information on cooking in your wood fired pizza oven  - and recipes etc.
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I had a few rough cobbles around so I made use of them. Some people put a brick covering on top of dome at this stage but I had decided to go with an A-Roof and fill with dry vermiculite. Please forgive the untidy state of things. Some info on The Green Man here!
Wall taking shape (and level!)
the Green Man is something I made from a silicone mould in a previous life. It's a special plaster with a polymer in it so it is as hard as stone. (Update - after one year in the open, the Green man is a bit worn looking. :o) Others were picked up at Boot Sale or donated by friends.
Still a few fiddly bits to do this spring to make it really finished. A section of black stove pipe will make a fine chimney.  I made a joining piece that goes from the chimney pot  to the black stove pipe.   I used heavy tin and a few rivets! Some rough dash on the sidewalls will give a Mediterranen feel. We had several Pizza Parties last year and they were a great success. I need to close off the area around the chimney pot and keep the rain out. 

Some Tips:
Make sure the oven door cover fits through the brick entrance before the bricks set solid.
The logs in my photos are simply ornamental.  As you will know, the fire goes inside the dome. It needs really dry wood - I  like to use ash firewood - and this will provide the fierce heat you need.  Keep the heat going for around 1.5 hours before starting to cook.  I made a slate removable door for the front so I could control heat.  When the fire-brick door is closed, the fire goes out so be careful.
Information on lighting oven  and cooking pizza here.

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The pot has been fitted.  There is a rim at lower end which rests on the angle iron. I used a few bits of slate to close of the gaps around the bottom of the pot, then filled with cement and ceramic blanket.  You will notice that I have started to build a brick mini-wall closing off the view of dome. The ceramic blanket around pot as you build will keep heat from the roof. Plan your roof before cutting. Note the height of the side walls.  They must be level across - one to the other.

Probably not needed, but I took no chances and wrapped the timber in ceramic fibre blanket just behind the chimney.  Better safe than sorry.  And, an insulated chimney pot will draw smoke better than an uninsulated one. The ridge board (uppermost front to back) rests on bricks behind chimney and on a timber cross piece at rear. Also see  next image.

The timbers for the roof: I used 3 x 2 (inch) lengths and drilled through them and into the concrete blocks (after blocks had a couple of days drying).  Then I used  4 or 5 inch express-nails.  See image. 
See the short piece marked FINALLY below!! The dome in above image will be hidden by loose vermiculite before you close off the inner space under the roof

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Top dark board is the ridge-board and forms the ridge of the roof.  The 3x2 (inches) nailed to the wall is the wall-plate. You can see how the short rafters are fitted.  You must notch the rafter where it meets the wall-plate, and cut the angle where it meets the ridge board. The rafters must be kept down at the ridge board to accomodate the battons you will put on across the rafters - from front to back.  The metal sheet goes on top of the battens.

You can just about make out in this image - the marks for cutting the 'bird's beak' which sits on the wall plate.  There are professional carpenters' ways for doing this and there is my way.  I confess I just held the rafter to the end of the wall-plate and up to the ridge-board and pencilled in the birds beak.
VIP  :  You must allow the space for the battens when you hold the rafter against the ridge-board.  When you are satisfied with the first rafter - mark all the others from that one.   
All sorts of things going on in this photo! The chimney pot had to be extended so I manufactured a piece using a sheet of tin I had thrown in the shed.  I measured, tied it in a tube shape, drilled and rivetted. Stove pipe will befitted later.
The eagle eyes among you will have noticed that I have a strange arrangement of rafter under the corrugated sheeting.  No need to go as high as this.  It's just a matter of choice.  Remember as you are making your roof that you will be fitting fascia boards. 

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Fascia boards fitted and ready for filling and painting.  I fitted an extra piece of wood onto/into the top of the bricks for the front fascia.  I screwed front fascia to piece of wood and ends of battens. The sheets of corrugated iron were fitted so that they extend over the fascia boards for rain run-off. The sheets were kept apart at top so that the ridge board was just revealed. Along the top of the ridge, I screwed down an old shovel-handle!!  Before I screwed down the shovel-handle, I cut the lead to size, and gently folded it onto the handle on a flat surface.  The lead will take up the shape easily and just needs a gentle pushing under sides of handle. When you screw down the handle, the lead now fits effortlessly in place. Tap the lead onto the shape of the corrugated iron. Use a shaped piece of wood (lead-beater) and not a metal object!! The lead-beater in image above is made of hard plastic but costs about thirty euros.  Make one from wood!

Click Here for tips on lighting fire, implements you will need, Recipe for dough and recipe for Tomato sauce.
After you have made a back for your oven, wooden 2x4(inch) pieces nailed to rear of sidewalls and tin or wooden back fixed on, fill the space under the roof with dry vermiculite. If you have any ceramic fibre blanket put that on top of dome first.  You'll be amazed that with 400c degrees in the oven, you can put your hand on a cool external sidewall because of all the insulation you have used. 

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